Charles Daniel McDonald

Paris Fashion Week drew to a close, bringing to an end a month-long circuit of international shows that began in New York before moving through London and Milan. With a schedule spanning nine days, almost twice the length of other fashion capitals, Paris continues to set the pace for the season. Its dominance lies not only in scale, but in the presence of the industry’s most influential houses, including Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent, among others.

For all the commentary that continues to question the relevance of haute couture in the present day, it remains one of fashion’s most exacting and closely guarded disciplines. Defined by centuries-old traditions and strict criteria overseen by La Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, couture is distinguished above all by its devotion to handwork.

Paris brings menswear month to its crescendo. Over six dense days, the city offers not a summary but a statement: this is where the A/W 2026 season is tested, refined, and ultimately defined. The schedule balances heritage and provocation, spectacle and restraint. From the grand houses shaping global taste to independent designers pushing form and meaning, Paris once again proves itself as menswear’s most exacting stage.

The fashion world is undergoing a period of profound transformation. Across the S/S 2026 show season, no fewer than 14 creative directors unveiled their debut collections for some of the industry’s most prestigious houses. This wave of new appointments marks a significant shift that is likely to shape the global style narrative for years to come.

The haute couture shows hold a unique place in the fashion calendar. Staged twice a year, they represent the height of Parisian artistry, showcasing garments that are unparalleled in craftsmanship and intricacy. Each couture piece is meticulously constructed by hand, often requiring hundreds of hours to complete, and must be individually tailored to fit the exact measurements of the client, a strict requirement for the haute couture designation.

Paris Fashion Week A/W 2025 took centre stage in the French capital this week, featuring a jam-packed lineup of runway presentations from some of the industry’s biggest names. Among the highlights were showcases from Dior, Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, Chanel, and Givenchy—the latter drawing particular attention as it marked the highly anticipated debut of former Alexander McQueen designer Sarah Burton.

“Haute couture seeks to soar; it offers an escape from the complexities of reality,” remarked Daniel Roseberry of Schiaparelli on the morning of 27th January, as he inaugurated Paris Haute Couture Week S/S 2025 with a collection aptly named Icarus. The ill-fated figure of Greek mythology served as a metaphor for Roseberry’s relentless pursuit of excellence within the medium—a tireless, almost unattainable ascent towards ever-greater levels of artistry and execution.

“Fashion is the art of capturing the moment, blending tradition with innovation,” a sentiment that perfectly encapsulates Milan Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2025. Over four dynamic days, Milan reaffirmed its place as the global capital of menswear, highlighting an extraordinary tapestry of creativity, artisanry, and forward-thinking design.

The imminent arrival of the Paris Olympics is the talk of Haute Couture Week, influencing this season’s collections in significant ways. At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri drew inspiration from the classical silhouettes of the event’s Ancient Greek origins. Thom Browne, on the other hand, infused his designs with elements of American sportswear, concluding his runway show with a unique medal ceremony.

Following stops in London, Florence, and Milan, Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2025 concluded this season’s menswear tour. A highlight was Dries Van Noten’s farewell as creative director of his eponymous label, marking the end of an era with a runway show on the outskirts of Paris on Saturday evening. The Belgian designer bid adieu after 38 illustrious years, assembling past and present models to celebrate his celebrated career.

In its pursuit of sensory immersion and participatory elements, “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion”—the Costume Institute’s new exhibition, opened to the public on May 10, after the 2024 Met Gala, with a mission to break down traditional boundaries. This is achieved physically through the limited use of glass cases, and more intangibly, by engaging multiple senses.

A fresh surge of energy invigorated Milan Fashion Week Men’s this season, with a distinct British influence: Martine Rose, known for her idiosyncratic menswear inspired by underground subcultures, made her debut on Sunday afternoon (16 June 2024). Heritage house Dunhill also joined the Milan schedule, with Simon Holloway presenting a collection he termed ‘radically classic’.

What an array of emotions the skirl of the bagpipes can stir. For the uninitiated, “skirl” refers to that hauntingly beautiful, sometimes headache-inducing wail they produce. Bagpipes, with their mournful and wistful tones, are akin to Bjork in the realm of musical instruments: otherworldly and polarising. Maria Grazia Chiuri began and concluded her Dior resort show in the manicured splendour of Drummond Castle‘s gardens in Scotland with the evocative sound of bagpipes.

Park Güell is a realm of enchantment, a dreamscape for any wanderer. Beneath a perfect sunset, it became the stage for Louis Vuitton’s latest ethereal themed Cruise 2025 show. Nicolas Ghesquière continues his architectural pilgrimage, encouraging guests to explore or rediscover Barcelona’s extraordinary Antoni Gaudí heritage – a singularly unique genius who embraced Art Nouveau, known in Spain as Modernisme, by manipulating materials, particularly ceramics, to create undulating corners.

As Paris Fashion Week A/W 2024 draws to a close, it marks the grand finale of a whirlwind fashion month that spanned New York, London, and Milan. Over nine glittering days, the world’s fashion elite anticipate spectacular showcases from the industry’s titans. Louis Vuitton, slated to close the week on Tuesday evening, is poised to celebrate Nicolas Ghesquière’s remarkable ten-year tenure as creative director.